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Author: Let's Upgrade Painting

Can You Paint Over Tung Oil? (Explained)

Are you staring at a beautiful piece of tung oil-finished wood, wishing you could give it a fresh new look with a coat of paint? 

Maybe you’ve got a cherished piece of furniture that doesn’t quite match your new decor, or perhaps you’re looking to breathe new life into some old wood paneling. 

Whatever your reason, you’re probably wondering, “Can I actually paint over this tung oil finish?”

I have some good news for you – you can paint over tung oil!

In this post, I’ll go over everything you need to know about painting over tung oil.

Can You Paint Over Tung Oil?

The short answer is yes, you can paint over tung oil, but it’s not as simple as slapping some paint on and calling it a day.

Tung oil penetrates deep into the wood and creates a tough barrier that can make it challenging for paint to adhere well. So you need to sand and prime the wood first.

Also Read: Do You Let Cut In Dry Before Rolling?

And you can’t use any paint either – oil based paints and acrylic paints are your best bet.

Oil-Based paints is the best choice for painting over tung oil. They play nice with the tung oil and tend to stick better. Plus, they’re tough, so they can handle some wear and tear.

Acrylic paints can work too, especially if you want more color choices or faster drying times. But you’ll need to be extra careful with priming if you go with these.

How To Paint Over Tung Oil

With that out of the way, let me walk you through how to paint over tung oil step by step.

It might seem like a lot, but trust me, it’s worth it for a great finish.

#1 Allow Tung Oil To Cure

Before attempting to paint over tung oil, you’ve got to let the tung oil fully cure.

Tung oil typically takes about 15 to 30 days to cure completely, depending on the environmental conditions and the number of coats applied. 

Some processed tung oil finishes might even be ready in about 5-7 days!

I know, I know, it’s a long wait. But painting over uncured oil is just asking for trouble.

Want to check if it’s ready? Just press a clean cloth on it. If it feels sticky or leaves oil on the cloth, it needs more time.

#2 Clean The Surface

Once the tung oil has cured, thoroughly clean the surface to remove any dirt, dust, or grease. 

Use a mild detergent solution and warm water, then rinse well and allow the surface to dry completely. This is super important because any leftover gunk can mess with how well your paint sticks and cause the new paint to peel or flake.

If you’ve got some really stubborn dirt, you might need a special wood cleaner. Just make sure you rinse it off really well afterward.

#3 Sand Lightly

Recently Sanded Table Top Made Of Wooden Boards With Tung Oil Coating

After cleaning, lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper (220-320 grit). 

The goal here is not to remove the tung oil entirely but to create a slightly rough surface that will allow the primer to bond more effectively. 

Be gentle, though – we don’t want to damage the wood. 

Sand in the direction of the wood grain to avoid creating visible scratches. 

When you’re done, wipe off all the dust with a tack cloth. A vacuum with a brush attachment can help too.

Also Read: Do You Prime Before Texture?

#4 Prime The Surface

Priming is super important here. You want an oil-based primer that’ll work with both the tung oil and your new paint. If you can find a bonding primer made for glossy surfaces, even better. 

Apply it evenly with a brush or roller, and follow the instructions on the can for drying times. 

This primer creates a barrier between the tung oil and the new paint, promoting better adhesion and a more uniform final appearance. 

Depending on what you’re working with, you might need two coats for the best coverage.

#5 Paint Over Tung Oil

Finally, the fun part – painting! 

Make sure you’re using good quality paint that matches your primer. 

Here’s a pro tip: apply thin, even coats. It might be tempting to glob it on, but trust me, thin coats are the way to go. Use long, smooth strokes, and keep them all going in the same direction.

You might need a few coats to get the color just right.

Let each coat dry completely before you add another. 

Oh, and don’t forget to open some windows, especially if you’re using oil-based paint – that stuff can be pretty strong!

Bottom Line

You can paint over tung oil, but it does take some work. The key is to be patient and follow all the steps – let it cure, clean it well, sand it lightly, prime it right, and then paint away. 

Also Read: Can You Skim Coat Over Wallpaper?

If you try to rush it or skip steps, you might end up with paint that peels or looks blotchy. 

But if you take your time and do it right, you’ll end up with a beautiful, long-lasting paint job that looks like it was done by a pro. 

FAQs

Tung Oil Over Acrylic Paint

No, you cannot apply tung oil over acrylic paint. Acrylic paint is a water-based paint that forms a film on top of the surface. Tung oil, being an oil-based product, will not adhere well to this film and could cause peeling or bubbling.

Can You Stain Over Tung Oil?

Yes, you can stain over tung oil, but the stain will likely be darker than if applied directly to bare wood. Plus, the stain may not penetrate as deeply because of the protective layer of tung oil.

Can You Put Tung Oil Over Paint?

No, you cannot put tung oil over paint. Tung oil is designed to penetrate wood and provide a natural finish. Applying it over paint would likely result in a poor finish and potential peeling.

Can You Use Tung Oil Over Chalk Paint

No, you cannot use tung oil over chalk paint. Chalk paint is a porous paint that absorbs moisture. Tung oil will not adhere to it.

Do You Let Cut In Dry Before Rolling? (Explained)

Thinking about giving your room a fresh look? Painting can really transform a space, but getting that professional finish takes a bit of know-how. 

One question that comes up a lot is do you let the cut-in areas dry before rolling. 

It might seem like a small detail, but it can make a big difference in your final result.

Turns out, you should NOT let the cut-in dry before rolling.

In this post, I’ll explain why you should let cut-in dry before rolling, what happens if you let it dry, and the scenarios when you should actually let it dry before rolling.

Do You Let Cut In Dry Before Rolling?

A Young Man Paints The Wall With A Brush

The short answer is no, you generally shouldn’t let the cut-in dry before rolling.

The idea is to keep a “wet edge” between the cut-in and the rolled paint. This way, you get a smooth transition without any awkward lines.

Also Read: Do You Prime Before Texture?

Here’s the general process:

  1. Cut in: Paint along the edges of the surface with a brush.
  2. Roll: Immediately start rolling the main area of the surface.
  3. Blend: While the cut-in and rolled paint are still wet, use the roller to gently blend the edges together.

But there are some exceptions. Quick-drying paints, like Benjamin Moore Aura, might need a different approach. We’ll get into that later.

What Happens If You Let Cut-In Dry?

Keeping a wet edge is super important if you want your paint job to look top-notch. When you blend wet cut-in paint with wet rolled paint, you get this seamless finish that looks like a pro did it.

But what if you let the cut-in dry before rolling?

Well, a few things could happen, and they might mess up your paint job:

Visible Lines And “Picture Framing”

Painter On Step Ladder Cutting In Ceiling With Paint

The biggest problem you’ll notice is visible lines between the cut-in areas and the rolled parts.

People call this “picture framing” because it looks like there’s a frame around the edge of your wall. It happens because the dried cut-in paint creates a distinct edge that the roller can’t fully blend with the rest of the wall.

These lines can be particularly obvious in certain lighting conditions or with glossier paint finishes, and they can make your paint job look less professional.

Also Read: Can You Skim Coat Over Wallpaper?

Texture Inconsistencies

Another problem that can happen is a difference in texture between the cut-in and rolled areas. Brushes used for cutting in tend to leave a smoother finish, while rollers create a slightly bumpy or stippled effect. 

When you let the cut-in dry, these texture differences become a lot more noticeable. 

The result is a wall with noticeable variations in texture, which can be especially evident in areas with strong lighting or on walls with a glossy finish. 

This inconsistency can detract from the overall quality of your paint job.

Color Variations

This one’s not always obvious, but there’s a chance the color might look a bit different between the dried cut-in paint and the fresh rolled areas. 

It’s more likely to happen with deeper or brighter colors because the way paint dries can slightly change how it looks in the end.

You might end up with a wall that looks like a subtle patchwork of almost-but-not-quite-matching colors – definitely not the uniform, professional finish you were aiming for!

Tips For Different Paint Sheens

The shine level of your paint can affect how forgiving it is if the cut-in dries before rolling. 

Flat and eggshell finishes are usually more forgiving. 

If you end up with some dried cut-in areas before rolling with these sheens, you might not notice the differences as much.

But when you’re dealing with satin, semi-gloss, or glossy finishes, you’ve got to be more careful about keeping that wet edge. These shinier paints reflect more light, so any inconsistencies in texture or how you apply it will be more noticeable. 

When you’re working with these higher-sheen paints, it’s extra important to work in smaller sections and keep everything wet as you go.

When Is It Ok To Let Cut-In Dry Before Rolling?

Now, even though keeping a wet edge is usually the way to go, there are times when it’s okay (or even better) to let the cut-in dry before rolling. 

Some fast-drying paints, like Benjamin Moore Aura, are actually made to be used with the cut-in allowed to dry first. These paints form a skin quickly, and if you try to blend wet paint with paint that’s starting to dry, you can end up pulling the paint and getting an uneven finish.

If you’re putting on multiple coats of paint, it can be fine to let the cut-in dry between coats. 

In this case, you’d cut in and roll each coat separately, giving it plenty of time to dry in between. 

This can be really helpful when you’re making a big color change and need really good coverage.

Some painting techniques, like back-rolling, can also work well with dried cut-in areas. 

With this method, you cut in and let it dry, then roll the whole wall and immediately roll over it again with very light pressure to even out the texture.

Also Read: How we Prep Walls for Painting After Removing Wallpaper

Wrapping Up

So, there you have it! When it comes to letting cut-in areas dry before rolling, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. 

While keeping a wet edge is usually the best way to get that smooth, pro-looking finish, there are times when letting the cut-in dry can work well too. 

The key is understanding your paint and the look you’re going for, and then decide.

FAQs

Can You Cut In And Paint The Next Day?

No. It’s generally not recommended to cut in and paint the next day. You should try to maintain a wet edge between the cut-in and rolled paint.

Do I Need To Cut In Second Coat Of Paint?

Yes, you need to cut in the second coat of paint. This helps to ensure a clean, even finish and prevents the second coat from overlapping onto the first.

Can You Skim Coat Over Wallpaper?

So, you’re staring at that old wallpaper and wondering if you can just skim coat over it, huh?

It’s a question I get a lot, and I totally understand why. Wallpaper can be a real pain to remove sometimes, and skim coating seems like it might be an easy fix.

The thing is, while you can skim coat over wallpaper, it’s not always the best choice.

So, before you decide to go this route, it’s important to understand what you’re getting into, and potential issues you could run into.

In this post, I’ll go over everything you need to know about skim coating over wallpaper.

Can You Skim Coat Over Wallpaper Without Removing It?

Yes, you can skim coat over wallpaper (or even wallpaper glue) without taking it off first. 

This can be a real time-saver, especially when the wallpaper just doesn’t want to come off or if removing it might damage your walls.

But here’s the thing – it’s not always smooth sailing. 

How well it works really depends on what shape your wallpaper is in. 

If it’s stuck on there good and tight, you might be okay. But if it’s peeling or bubbling anywhere, you could run into some trouble.

I’ll talk about some of the risks later on in the post.

Also Read: Do You Prime Before Texture?

How To Skim Coat Over Wallpaper

Here’s a step by step guide on how to skim over your wallpaper properly: 

#1 Assess The Situation

Before you jump in, take a good look at your walls. 

Are there large sections of loose wallpaper? Is the paper peeling off in some areas but not others? These are all things you need to consider. 

You should only skim coat if the existing wallpaper is still in relatively good condition.

#2 Address Problem Areas

Now that you’ve decided to go ahead with skim coating, it’s time to get your walls ready. You need to make sure your wallpaper is as smooth and well-adhered as possible.

Walk around your room and run your hands over the walls. Feel for any bubbles and loose edges. These are the spots you’ll need to address. 

Outlets, light switches, and corners are usually where wallpaper starts to give up the ghost first. 

You can cut away these loose sections and bubbles with a utility knife.

You can use some wallpaper paste if needed too.

#3 Prepare Corners And Seams

Now that we’ve dealt with the problem areas, let’s focus on the corners and seams. 

In the corners where you’ve cut out the wallpaper, you’ll want to make sure you have a clean, straight edge to work with. 

This might mean doing a bit more cutting or even sanding to get things just right.

As for those seams where one piece of wallpaper meets another, we can’t just ignore them. If we did, they might show through our skim coat, and that’s definitely not the professional look we’re aiming for. 

We’ll need to reinforce these areas to make sure they don’t cause us problems down the line.

Also Read: Preparing Walls for Painting After Removing Wallpaper

#4 Apply Drywall Tape

Time to break out the tape! For the corners, we’re going to use good old-fashioned paper tape. It might not look like much, but it’s perfect for creating those sharp, clean edges we want. 

Apply it carefully, making sure it’s straight and well-adhered.

For the seams between wallpaper pieces, I like to use fiber fuse drywall tape. It’s easy to work with and does a great job of reinforcing those potential weak spots. 

If you can’t find fiber fuse, fiberglass mesh tape will do the trick too. 

Just remember, if you go with mesh, you’ll need to use a quick-setting compound instead of regular joint compound.

#5 Mud And Tape As Normal

The Process Of Smearing Plaster

Now we’re getting to the heart of the matter – the actual skim coating. 

Treat this just like you would any other skim coating job

Apply your joint compound over the tape, making sure to spread it evenly. Use your taping knife to smooth it out, feathering the edges so they blend seamlessly with the surrounding areas.

You’ll probably need to apply multiple coats to get a really smooth finish. 

Don’t try to do it all in one go – thin, even layers are the key to success here. Pay extra attention to those taped areas – they can be a bit trickier to get smooth. 

And don’t forget to let each coat dry completely before adding the next one.

#6 Sanding

Once your final coat of joint compound is completely dry, it’s time to sand. Use a fine-grit sandpaper and take your time. The goal here is to create a surface that’s smooth as glass. 

Run your hands over the walls – they should feel perfectly even, with no bumps or dips.

#7 Finish And Review

Now step back and take a good look at your work. 

Are there any spots that need touching up? 

Any areas where you can still see a hint of the old wallpaper texture? 

Now’s the time to address these issues. It might mean applying another small patch of compound or doing a bit more sanding, but it’s worth it to get a truly professional-looking finish. 

When you’re done, your walls should look like they were never wallpapered in the first place.

Risks Of Skim Coating Over Wallpaper

Now let’s talk about some of the risks involved in skim coating over wallpaper. It’s important to know what you’re getting into:

Also Read: How Long For Home Wood Rot?

Adhesion Problems

One of the biggest issues is getting the joint compound to stick properly. 

Wallpaper isn’t always the best surface for this, especially if it’s got a shiny finish. 

If the compound doesn’t stick well, you might end up with cracks or peeling down the line.

This is why you need to make sure the wallpaper is in good shape and maybe even use a special bonding agent to help everything stick together.

Wallpaper Might Peel Or Bubble

Even if your wallpaper looks well-adhered now, the moisture from the joint compound could cause problems sometimes. 

The water in the compound can sometimes seep through to the wallpaper adhesive..

This can lead to bubbling or peeling of the wallpaper underneath your newly skim coated surface. 

The tricky part is that this doesn’t always happen right away. You might think everything’s fine, and then months later, you start seeing issues. 

Uneven Surface

If your wallpaper has any kind of texture or pattern, it might show through your skim coat. 

This can leave you with a surface that’s not quite as smooth as you want, and it might even be noticeable after painting.

You might need to put on several layers of joint compound to fix this.

Harder To Remove The Wallpaper Later

Here’s something to think about for the future – if you skim coat over your wallpaper, it’s going to be much harder to remove it later on. 

The joint compound will stick to the wallpaper, basically gluing it to the wall even more.

If you ever try to take it off, you’ll probably end up damaging the wall underneath. 

So before you start skim coating, make sure you’re okay with that.

Bottom Line

Interior Of A Room Finished Drywall

Skimming over wallpaper isn’t always recommended, but sometimes it’s the best option we’ve got. Take your time, follow these steps, and you’ll end up with walls that are smooth and ready for whatever color you throw at them.

Do You Prime Before Texture? (Yes – Here’s Why)

If you’re getting ready to spruce up your walls, you might find yourself wondering about the order of operations. Should you prime before or after adding texture? 

It’s a pretty common question, and while there’s some debate out there.

But the proper way is to prime first and then apply the texture.

That is what most professionals and product manufacturers recommend, and that is what we recommend too. 

There are some pretty good reasons for this, and it usually means your walls end up looking awesome and staying that way for ages.

In this post, I’ll shed some light on why you should prime before texture.

Why You Should Prime Before Texture

Here are the 4 biggest reasons why you should prime first:

#1 Improves Texture Adhesion

Priming before you add texture gives that texture something to really grab onto. Primer makes your wall a bit sticky, which means the texture can hold on tight.

This is super important for a couple of reasons. 

First, it means your texture is way less likely to start peeling or flaking off over time. 

Nobody wants to see their hard work start to come apart, right? 

Second, it’s especially crucial in areas of your home that tend to get a bit damp or steamy. 

In bathrooms, kitchens, or even in humid climates, that extra grip can make all the difference in keeping your textured walls looking great for years to come.

Also Read: Why Use High-Quality Paints and Materials?

#2 Even Absorption

Priming before you add texture also seals the drywall surface and makes sure the whole wall absorbs the texture evenly. 

This is really important if you’re working with new drywall or patches.

New drywall often has spots that soak up more than others. The same goes for walls with patches – the fixed-up areas will probably absorb differently than the rest of the wall. 

If you put texture right on these surfaces, you might end up with a patchy look because some areas will soak up more of the texture than others.

Primer evens things out. It creates a surface that absorbs the same way all over the wall. 

This means when you put on your texture, it’s more likely to look even and consistent from one spot to another.

Even absorption also helps your texture last longer – it’s less likely to crack or peel over time.

#3 Highlights Imperfections

Close Up Popcorn Ceiling Texture Ceiling

Another cool thing about priming before texturing is that it can help you spot imperfections in your wall that you might have missed otherwise.

When you put on primer, it can make small dents, dings, or uneven spots easier to see.

Now, you might be thinking, “Why would I want to see more imperfections?” 

Well, it’s actually a good thing! Finding out these issues before you apply texture, you give yourself the opportunity to fix them. 

Also Read: How To Prep Walls For Painting After Removing Wallpaper

You can fill in small holes, sand down bumps, or deal with any other issues you notice.

Fixing these flaws at this point is way easier than trying to fix them after you’ve added texture. 

It lets you start with a smoother, more even surface, which means your texture job will look more professional.

Plus, dealing with these issues now can save you headaches later. Flaws that are covered up by texture can sometimes become more noticeable over time, especially after painting. 

#4 Better Texture Appearance

Priming before texturing can make your textured wall look way better in the end. 

The primer creates an even base color, which can really make your texture stand out.

This is super important if you’re using a light-colored texture or if you’re planning to paint your wall a color that’s totally different from the original wall color. 

The primer gives you a consistent background that lets the texture really shine.

Without primer, the original wall color might peek through in spots, especially if your texture is thin in some areas. This can make things look uneven. 

Primer can also change how light hits your textured wall. 

A primed surface often creates more depth in the texture, making the overall look even cooler.

What Do The Manufacturers Recommend?

A lot of the texture product companies actually tell you to prime before you use their stuff.

They don’t do this just for fun – there are good reasons behind their advice.

These companies have spent a lot of time and money testing their products in different conditions. They know what works best and what can lead to problems. 

When they recommend priming first, it’s because they’ve found that this approach leads to better results and fewer issues.

Bottom Line

So, to wrap it up, priming before you add texture is usually the way to go if you want the best results when finishing your walls. 

It helps the texture stick better, seals the drywall, makes sure everything absorbs evenly, helps you spot and fix imperfections, and generally makes the texture look better. 

However, it might take a little more time and effort upfront.

But the benefits of how your wall looks and how long it lasts make it a worthwhile step!